On the way from Ste-Anne to Ste-Rose, you pass a large suspension bridge, Le Pont d’Anglais, which was built in 1894. Adrenalin junkies now practise bungee jumping from the bridge over the Rivière de l’Est. This is also one of many favoured spots for the customary Sunday family picnic.
Surrounded by endless sugarcane fields, Ste-Rose is on the shoulder of the Piton-de-la-Fournaise volcano. There’s something savage about the coastline here, with its black, rocky cliffs and wild, wild seas. Swimming is not on, but I am told by those in the know that the scuba diving offshore is excellent. (If you do this, make sure you go with very experienced people as the sea is potentially murderous.) In terms of sporting activities, the area is possibly best known for its mountain-biking trails
Ste-Rose is essentially a fishing village which has grown up around the harbour. At the harbour is a monument in honour of the defeated British naval commander, Corbett, who died in a battle with the French in 1809. The post office is at 184 Route Nationale 2. Pharmacie Boyer is at 447 RN2 in Piton-Ste-Rose.
Ste-Rose’s big claim to fame is the church of Notre Dame des Laves, which is actually at Piton-Ste-Rose. On 12 April 1977, Piton-de-la-Fournaise blew its top once again, spewing out a wall of molten lava that rushed directly towards Piton-Ste-Rose. Everything in its path was destroyed: houses, trees and crops. The lava began crossing the road in front of the church. And then the unbelievable happened. The lava separated exactly at the church’s front door and forked around it, flowing on either side until the two halves met on the other side of the church and continued towards the sea. Locals thought it was a miracle. Going inside the church and examining the framed photographs and newspaper clippings depicting that incredible event, you can see why. You’ll also see a painting of Christ halting the lava. Some strange things have happened on this island.
Heading south of Ste-Rose, you’ll arrive at Pointe des Cascades, Réunion’s easternmost point. Just below it is Anse des Cascades, a beautiful quiet bay, backed on three sides by very high, very steep cliffs. The ‘cascades’ referred to plummet down the green cliffs into a pool. This is a popular area for local fishermen and colourful fishing boats lie in neat rows along the shore. There’s a dense palm grove with several picnic spots and a small restaurant. The bay has a surreal feel and people come here from all over the island to enjoy the natural beauty and remote surrounds. Needless to say, it becomes packed on weekends. Once again, swimming is not safe.
GETTING THERE AND AWAY Ste-Rose lies on the St-Pierre–St-Benoît coastal bus route (Line I) and there is a stop almost directly outside Notre Dame des Laves.
WHERE TO STAY
Unclassified accommodation
Budget
A Hotel La Fournaise (23 rooms) 154 RN2, Ste-Rose; % 0262 270340; e hotellafournaise2[at]wanadoo.fr; hotellafournaise.fr. A relatively new accommodation option. Fresh, clean, unfussy en-suite rooms with AC, TV & phone, & wooden, Creole-style furniture. Some rooms have a view of the sea. There is a good restaurant & a pool. $$
Shoestring
A Auberge du Poisson Rouge (7 rooms) 503 RN2, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 473251. Simply furnished, clean rooms. $
A Le Joyau des Laves (4 rooms) Piton Cascades, RN2, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 473400; f 0262 472535; e spielmann[at]joyaudeslaves.com; joyaudeslaves.com. This chambre d’hôte is in a wonderful setting on a hillside overlooking the sea, south of Ste-Rose. The comfortable rooms have en-suite facilities & 1 is designed to be accessible to the disabled. Rooms 1 & 3 have a phone. $
WHERE TO EAT
X Gingembre Combava Hotel La Fournaise, 154 RN2, Ste-Rose; % 0262 470340. ( for lunch & dinner daily. Cuisine: Creole, French, seafood. A clean, fairly smart restaurant. Table d’hôte meals from €25. Reservation recommended. $$$
X Anse des Cascades Restaurant Anse des Cascades, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 472042; ( for lunch Sat–Thu. Cuisine: French, Creole, seafood. Popular restaurant in an idyllic setting. Dinner on reservation. Dish of the day from €10. $$
X Auberge du Poisson Rouge 503 RN2, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 473251; ( for lunch Tue–Sun, for dinner Tue–Sat. Cuisine: Creole, French, Chinese, seafood. Casual atmosphere. Good reputation for fish dishes. Main courses from €10. $$
X Bel Air 480 RN2, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 472250; ( 08.00–14.00 daily. Cuisine: Creole. Informal restaurant, popular with locals. Dinner on reservation. Set menus from €12. $$
X Deux Pitons RN2, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 472316; ( for dinner Thu–Tue. Cuisine: Creole, French. Heart of palm salad & fish cari are specialities. Main courses from €9. $$
X Joyau des Laves Piton Cascade, RN2, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 473400; ( for dinner daily. Cuisine: Creole. Reservation only. Table d’hôte meals from €16. $$
X Le Corail RN2, Piton-Ste-Rose; % 0262 237536; ( 09.30–18.00 daily. Cuisine: Creole. Take-away available. Casual restaurant serving tasty local dishes. $$
X Restaurant 168 RN2 Ste-Rose; % 0262 472041; ( for lunch Tue–Sun, dinner on reservation. Cuisine: Creole, Indian. $$
NIGHTLIFE On Saturday nights, the energetic might want to try the disco Roz d’Zil (317 RN2, Ravine Glissante; % 0262 473606).
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