Réunion’s rugged interior makes it the best hiking destination in the western Indian Ocean. More than 1,000km of trails criss-cross the island’s mountains.
Opened in 1997, the Maison de la Montagne (Mountain House) in St-Denis is the central reservations office for accommodation in rural areas. Here visitors can obtain all the necessary information about hiking trails, accommodation along the routes, grading of routes and other activities on offer in rural areas. As yet, their literature is available only in French; however, the maps are useful and the staff speak English. They also provide itineraries, which can be booked as packages. (For contact details see Accommodation for hikers opposite.) The trails are well managed and marked according to the official French system. The two Grande Randonnées hiking trails (GR R1 and GR R2) are marked with red and white paint. Other footpaths are indicated in red and yellow. The GR R1 trail, known as Le Tour du Piton-des-Neiges, is a complete circle, which covers the north of Cirque de Cilaos, passes through Hell-Bourg and around Cirque de Salazie, then into Mafate and back to Cilaos via the Col du Taïbit. GR R2, or La Grande Traversée de l’Ile, cuts across the island from St-Denis to the coast near St-Philippe, via the cirques, Entre-Deux, the Plaines and Piton-de-la-Fournaise. The trails classified as Sentiers Marmailles are easy walks of less than three hours, designed to be suitable for children. There are 42 listed in a book, Sentiers Marmailles, published by the Office Nationale des Forêts (for details of other publications on hiking, see Appendix 2, Further information, page 351).
Even for organised hikes, you must bring along your own backpack, sleeping bag, torch, Swiss army knife, crockery, cutlery, toiletries (including loo paper), warm clothing, appropriate footwear (sturdy hiking boots), rain gear, sun protection and any personal medication.
If you are hiking independently, it is advisable to ring the Maison de la Montagne beforehand to check that your proposed route is open. A good map is essential: 4402 RT is ideal for most hikes as it covers Cirque de Mafate, Cirque de Salazie and the northern part of Cirque de Cilaos, including the whole of the GR R1 trail. It is widely available from the Maison de la Montagne and tourist offices. To obtain maps prior to travel, contact the Institut Géographique National, 107 Rue de la Boétie, 75008 Paris. (See also the map of the cirques on page 334.)
Always let someone know where you are going and how long you plan to be away. Avoid hiking alone. Do check the weather forecasts and make sure that you are well prepared and equipped. If the worst does happen, the following are the official distress signals (helicopters do fly across the island regularly):
• Arms raised above your head in a ‘V’ shape
• Red flare
• Red square and a white circle
The gendarmerie nationale has a 24-hour emergency line (% 0262 930930).
(See also box Day hikes around Hell-Bourg, page 340. For literature on hiking see Appendix 2, Further information, page 269.)
GUIDED HIKES There are a number of state-certified guides and organisations operating in the mountains.
Expect to pay around €0–60 per person per day for a guided hike with the following companies or the multi-activity companies listed on page 269.
Allon’ Bat’ a Pat’ Rando 45 Impasse Gustave Courbet, 97430 Le Tampon; % 0262 574407; m 0692 879516; e allonbatapat[at]orange.fr; allonbatapat-rando.fr
Kokapat Rando 109 Chemin Farjeau, Trois Mares, Le Tampon; % 0262 333014; e kokapat.rando[at]hotmail.com; kokapatrando-reunion.com
Rando Run 2 Impasse des Acacias, 97427 Etang-Salé-les-Bains; %/f 0262 263131; m 0692 852256; e gilbert.aureche[at]wanadoo.fr; randorun.com
Rando Trek Réunion 139 Bd de l’Océan, Manapany les Bains; % 0692 015956; e randotrekreunion[at]gmail.com; randotrek-reunion.com
ACCOMMODATION FOR HIKERS There are numerous options open to hikers but remember to book well in advance. Most can be booked through the Maison de la Montagne in St-Denis (5 Rue Rontaunay, 97400 St-Denis; % 0262 907878; f 0262 418429; e resa[at]reunion-nature.com; reunion-nature.com; ( 09.00–17.00 Mon–Thu, 09.00–16.00 Fri). The following types of accommodation are available in rural areas: gîtes de montagne, gîtes d’étape, gîtes ruraux, chambres d’hôte, fermes auberges and refuges (rest huts). For details, see Chapter 15, Accommodation, pages 259–61.
Gîtes de montagne/gîtes d’étape These mountain houses/huts are the most plentiful type of accommodation on hiking routes and are often the only option in remote outposts. Thanks to the central reservations system you can book them in advance, at the following offices:
• Maison de la Montagne in St-Denis (see contact details above)
• All tourist offices
Reservations must be made well in advance to avoid disappointment (they prefer it if people book six months before travelling, particularly for high-season months), with payment preferably two weeks before arrival. Late reservations may be accepted, as there are often last-minute cancellations. Meals can be arranged through the caretakers, at least a day in advance, by phone. Pay for your meals directly, in cash.
Note that gîtes de montagne and gîtes d’étape are basic, dormitory-type accommodation. Some visitors have arrived to find that other guests have hogged all the blankets and pillows for themselves, but this is rare. Most do not have hot water and a few don’t have showers, so they really are only suitable as overnight stops.
All gîtes provide two blankets, a pillow and two sheets per person. Some kitchen utensils and a gas cooker are provided as well (speak to caretakers). Lighting in gîtes is usually by means of solar power.
Below is a selection of mountain gîtes.
Piton-de-la-Fournaise
A Volcan (57 beds) Mr Picard; % 0692 852091; f 0262 591662; legiteduvolcan.com
Roche Ecrite
A Plaine des Chicots (36 beds) Mr Bonald; % 0262 439984
Basse Vallée
A Basse Vallée (16 beds) Mr Bénard; % 0262 373625
Piton-des-Neiges
A Bélouve (30 beds, 2 dbl rooms) Mrs Rosset; % 0262 412123; e gite.belouve[at]wanadoo.fr
A Caverne Dufour (48 beds) Mr Dijoux; % 0262 511526
Rivière des Remparts
A Roche Plate (31 beds) Mrs Morel; % 0262 591394
Cilaos
A La Roche Merveilleuse (14 beds, 4 dbl rooms) Mr Payet; % 0262 318242
A Route de Cilaos (13 beds, 1 dbl room) Mr Ethève; % 0262 450816; e etheve.eric[at]sfr.fr. Between St-Louis & Cilaos.
Mafate
A Aurère (14 beds, 3 dbl rooms) Mr Boyer; % 0262 550233
A Aurère (16 beds) Ms Charlemagne; % 0262 433683
A Grand Place Cayenne (16 beds, 2 dbl rooms) Mr C Thomas; % 0262 438542
A Ilet à Bourse (16 beds, 2 dbl rooms) Mrs M Thomas; % 0262 434393
A Marla (16 beds, 4 dbl rooms) Mrs Hoareau; % 0262 437831
A La Nouvelle 1 (12 beds, 5 dbl rooms, 10 4-person bungalows) Mr A Begue; % 0262 436177
A La Nouvelle 2 (12 beds, 1 dbl room) Mrs Oréo; % 0262 435857
A Roche Plate (24 beds) Mrs Thiburce; % 0262 436001
Salazie
A La Mandoze (24 beds, 3 dbl rooms) Mr Manoro; % 0262 478965
A Relais des Gouverneurs (20 beds, 1 dbl room) % 0262 477621; e calouboyer[at]wanadoo.fr
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