Mauritius - Salazie And Hell Borg

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The drive inland from St-André takes you into increasingly lush and verdant surrounds, along the Rivière du Mât (you also pass through a village of the same name). Then, looming up ahead, are the high gorges, usually shrouded in a mist mantle. You’ll know you’re approaching the mouth of the cirque when you see several narrow waterfalls, one of which continually showers on to the tarred road, giving you a free carwash. A signpost announces it as ‘Pisse en l’air’ (I don’t think that one needs translating!).

Salazie is the area where Réunion’s most famed vegetable, the chouchou (Sechium edule), is cultivated. You will see many small homes surrounded by frames engulfed by this fast-growing climbing plant. The uses for it are many and menus in the area’s eateries typically feature everything from chouchou stuffed with prawns and melted cheese to chouchou cake as a dessert.

The first town you’ll come to in the cirque is Salazie itself, but most visitors continue to the smaller town of Hell-Bourg, quite a distance higher up. Few tourists spend any time in Salazie but it does have a petrol station, small supermarket and a post office complete with ATM and payphone. Both Salazie and Hell-Bourg have pharmacies.

As you continue on the winding road from Salazie to Hell-Bourg, it is worth stopping at the Point du Jour viewpoint for fantastic views of the cirque. There is a map indicating which peak is which.

Nearby is the sign to the lake of Mare à Poule d’Eau, which can be reached on foot or mountain bike. This is where the local inhabitants used to come to collect their water. The village of the same name is just a little further on, shortly beyond which are the famous Voile de la Mariée Falls (Bridal Veil Falls). The falls are signed and there is space to pull in and admire them from the road as they tumble into the gorge below.

As you travel between Salazie and Hell-Bourg it is worth making the 15km detour to Grand Ilet. It is a pretty, unspoilt village cupped by the cirque’s commanding mountains. The village’s Church of St Martin is a beautiful example of Creole architecture, with its lambrequin (filigree-style decoration), its light blue shutters and its tamarind shingle walls. A sign next to the bell tower, which is now in the grounds of the church, tells the building’s tortured history – detailing the numerous times it has been destroyed, moved and rebuilt. In the centre of Grand Ilet is a mountain-biking station with a signboard detailing the local trails. Grand Ilet is the starting point for hikes to St-Denis via La Roche Ecrite, while nearby Le Bélier allows access to the hiking trails which connect Cirque de Salazie and Cirque de Mafate. The viewpoint at Mare à Martin provides good views of the cirque and its villages.

In contrast to Salazie, which has little charm, Hell-Bourg is picture-postcard-perfect. Residents will proudly tell you that Hell-Bourg was awarded the prestigious title of ‘Most Beautiful Village in France’ in 2000 (I know, ‘in France’ still seems odd, doesn’t it?). It features small Creole houses with tiled roofs, intricate railings and explosions of colourful flowers in the small gardens and ubiquitous flower boxes. EU money has been made available to restore many of the Creole houses to their former glory. The wrought-iron lambrequins on the front of the eaves are typical, as are the bright colours.

Hell-Bourg is popular with tourists – there are many souvenir shops and numerous good Creole restaurants.

Getting there and away Salazie is easily reached by car or local bus service from St-André along a twisty but well-maintained road. Buses travel regularly between Salazie and Hell-Bourg, except on Sunday.

Tourist information Information about the area, hiking and bookings at gîtes de montagne are available from the tourist office in Hell-Bourg (47 Rue Général de Gaulle, Hell-Bourg; % 0262 478989; f 0262 478970; e info[at]oti-est.re; ( 09.00–12.15 & 13.00–17.00 Mon–Sat).

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Mauritius - Salazie And Hell Borg

Mauritius - Salazie And Hell Borg

Reunion

Mauritius - Salazie And Hell Borg