There is a well-stocked Score Jumbo hypermarket on the way out of town, at the Centre Commercial du Grand Large, at the far western end of Boulevard Hubert Delisle. There are smaller supermarkets in the town centre. St-Pierre is packed with restaurants to suit all budgets. Just opposite the main beach, on the corner of Boulevard Hubert Delisle and Rue Victor le Vigoureux is a collection of camions bars (snack bars). They serve a great range of inexpensive, tasty food, such as samoussas, filled baguettes and bombons piments.
I suppose I should also add that just at the entrance to St-Pierre from St-Louis is a branch of McDonald’s (they really are everywhere, aren’t they?).
Here are some recommended restaurants including a cross-section of culinary styles:
X La Baie des Anges 28 Av François Mitterand, Terre Sainte; % 0262 351840; labaiedesanges.re; ( for lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, closed Thu dinner & Sat lunch. Cuisine: French, seafood. In a charming blue & white Creole house, nicely decorated inside. On the menu are traditional French dishes & plenty of seafood. Local ingredients are used wherever possible, although the beef comes from France. $$$$
X Le Jardin Réunionnais 9 Petit Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 256680; ( for lunch & dinner Tue–Sun. Cuisine: French, Creole. A neat little place at the eastern end of Petit Bd Hubert Delisle. Dining is either in the walled garden or inside in the cosy, colourful restaurant. There is also a trendy little bar. The dishes are of high quality & very professionally presented. $$$$
X Les 3 Brasseurs ZI 2, Basse Terre; % 0262 963060; les3brasseurs.com; ( 08.30–late. Cuisine: French, German. Out of town, in an industrial estate. One for beer lovers – a micro-brewery, beer retailer & restaurant. Has that chain-restaurant feel. Regular evening entertainment. $$$$
X Alizé Plage Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 352221; ( for lunch & dinner 10.00–22.00 daily. Cuisine: French, Creole, seafood. St-Pierre’s best location – on the seafront. Good food overlooking the beach. Tables on the terrace are romantic, provided it’s not one of St-Pierre’s windy days. $$$
X Bambou 15 bis Rue Archambaud; % 0692 309602; ( for lunch Tue–Sat, for dinner Mon–Sat. Cuisine: European, Creole, Italian. There’s nothing special about the location but this restaurant serves good pizzas, salads & crêpes.
X Belo Horizonte 10 Rue François de Mahy; % 0262 223195; ( for lunch daily, for dinner Thu–Sat. Cuisine: European, Creole. Unpretentious restaurant with a pleasant courtyard area. A broad menu, including pizza, seafood, paella & even kangaroo. $$$
X Carpe Diem 47 Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 254512; ( for lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Cuisine: French. At the western end of the boulevard. Spacious restaurant with additional tables in the courtyard garden area. Creative menu using local ingredients to prepare dishes such as dorado with grapefruit & prawns with chilli & pineapple. $$$
X DCP 38bis Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 322171; ( for lunch & dinner daily. Cuisine: French, seafood. Comfortable restaurant with contemporary décor. Serves fresh fish straight from local boats. $$$
X La Table est Mise Cnr Rues du Four à Chaux & Désiré Barquisseau; % 0262 350215; closed Sat/Sun lunch, all day Wed. Cuisine: French, Italian. Tasty food, reasonable value for money. $$$
X Le Cabanon 28 Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 257146; ( for lunch & dinner Tue–Sun. Cuisine: Italian, French, grills. Fairly large with pleasant décor, popular for pizza. $$$
X Le Cap Méchant d’Abord Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 917199; ( for lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, for lunch Sun. Cuisine: Creole, Chinese. Popular, impressive restaurant at the far eastern (Terre Sainte) end of Bd Hubert Delisle. One of very few restaurants on the seafront side of the road, overlooking the harbour. Excellent caris, especially prawn (camarons), served with the traditional accompaniments. Reservation recommended, especially on weekends. $$$
X Le Castel Glacier 38 Rue François de Mahy; % 0262 229656; ( 11.00–18.00 Mon/Tue, 11.00–23.00 Wed/Thu, 14.00–23.00 Fri/Sat, 14.00–23.00 Sun. Cuisine: ice cream, light meals. Offers a wide range of ice cream, salads & crêpes. Free Wi-Fi. Modern & comfortable.$$$
X Le Marin Bleu 45 Rue Amirale Lacaze, Terre Sainte; % 0262 356165; ( for lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Cuisine: Creole, French, seafood. Quiet location opposite the seafront in Terre Sainte. Well known for its seafood. $$$
X Le Moana 25 Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 327338; ( for lunch & dinner daily, but occasionally closes on a Sun for no obvious reason. Cuisine: French, Creole, Italian. Pleasant restaurant with an airy, tropical feel. Menu offers plenty of choice. $$$
X Utopia 68 Rue M et A Leblond; % 0262 351583; ( for lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Cuisine: European. In an old, atmospheric Creole house, with tables inside & in the garden. Upmarket food, a creative menu & vast portions. $$$
X L’Eté Indien 46 Bd Hubert Delisle; % 0262 255752; ( 11.30–22.00 daily. Cuisine: European, ice cream, snacks. Has been there for at least 10 years & is still as popular as ever. 3-course set menu from €15. $$
X La Jonque 2 Rue François de Mahy; % 0262 255778; ( for lunch daily, for dinner Wed–Mon. Cuisine: Chinese. Remains popular, although the apparent lack of cleanliness is off-putting. $$
X Restaurant Thai 54 Rue Caumont; % 0262 353095; ( for lunch Tue–Sun, for dinner Tue–Sat. Cuisine: Thai. Offers good, traditional Thai food & a change from Creole & French cuisine. $$